Alpine Endeavors

Join us for one of our trips. While there are a lot of highly qualified guides and services out there, you'll see why many of our guests prefer to travel and climb with us. You'll be climbing with a guide who you already know, and knows you and your climbing styles and preferences.
New Guidebook An Ice Climbers Guide to the Catskill Mountains
Mountaineering

Andes Mountains, Ecuador

2008


December 28-January 8, 2008

We had a fun and successful trip to Ecuador in January of 2008.
Please enjoy the photos below from the trip.


The statue of the Virgin high on the hill in Parque El Pancillo from
the bellfry of Bascilica del Voto Nacional.


Old town from Parque El Pancillo


Pasochoa, a beautiful place to start the acclimatization hikes.


Up high on the ridge in Pasochoa, heading to the cliff band were
we'll turn around.


The rock wall at 3800M


Heading to Guagua Pichinchia. From this road, we'll have to follow the switchbacks up the steep hill in front of us to the refugio, then to the summit.


Heading up to the left peak from the refugio. The
crater is to the left of the photo down below in the clouds.


The ridge leading from the left summit to the main summit.


Everyone on the summit at 4,794M (15,728')


Illiniza Norte from the upper parking lot at La Virgen


The steep approach took 3 1/2 hrs and went from
high grassy plains thru steep scree to the upper
saddle where the refugio is located.


The refugio with Illinizia Norte behind freshly covered in snow.


Illinizia Sur from Illinizi Norte


Climbing Illinizia Norte requires some rock scrambling. Although some guidebooks say, "a rope is not needed", those who have been there know it is sure nice to bring along...


Returning to the refugio from Illinizia Norte via the scree descent


Cotopaxi in the evening, just before sundown from the Illinizia Col


Avenue of the volcanoes from the Illiniza Col at sunrise. From left to right, Cayambe, Antisana, and Cotopaxi.

View the video on Youtube

Cotopaxi peaking out thru the clouds on the drive in from Machachi


Cotopaxi and the Jose Ribas refugio from the parking lot at 4500M


The Jose Ribas refugio


The entrance into the refugio. Watch you head on the bell just right of the door...


The main dining area inside the refugio, the stairs go up to the sleeping area.


One of the kitchens inside the refugio


A view of the bunks in the sleeping area.


Climbing Cotopaxi requires starting in the early hours of the new
day - approx 12am to 1am.


After about 5hrs of climbing, we gain the steep slopes above Yanasacha, some daylight is starting to break thru the dark night.


Getting higher up, we'll soon be turning off our headlamps.


Sunrise on the east side of the mountain casts a shadow of it on the clouds.


Some on the crevasses passed along the way. The Illinizia's are
in the distance.


Getting high above Yanasacha, the summit is close.


The final steep slope and traverse above Yanasacha brings us to
the final crevasse and slope to the summit.


A break allows for some great pictures.

The summit of Cotopaxi, Matt, Marty and Chris after a long morning of climbing.

The summit cone of Cotopaxi. The smoke rising out of the crater brings a strong smell of sulfur. In the distance are Chimborazo and Tungurahua. Tungurahua has been very active lately and you can see a strong cloud of smoke rising up out of it.

View the video of the summit on Youtube

A closer view of Chimborazo and Tungurahua and its' smoke.


After a rest and some photos, it is time to head down.


Back down at the bowl below Yanasacha.


Heading down the glacier some more


Passing along a serac-ish block on the way down.


The refugio from the final turn, soon to be in our sleeping bags again.

 


A rest day takes us to the market in Otovalo


From rugs, to sweaters, to jewelry, you can get all your gifts here.


On the way back to Quito from Otovalo, we'll pass by the equator in Cayambe.


The monument here is an actual sun-dial. It is 3pm at the time of the photo - check out where the line from the shade is, right at the 3pm mark. For more info on the equator and this monument please visit: www.quitsato.org

 

Here is an itinerary* for our 12 day trip.

Day 1: Arrive in Quito (9000ft/2800m) Ecuador’s capital city, head to the hotel
Day 2: Head out for a hike/tour of the town and pick up and last minute supplies. Sort and pack gear, get ready for the mtns. This is a good day for acclimatizing.
Day 3 : Head to Pasochoa and hike up to the rock wall at 3,800M (12,464ft) and back. Pasachoa is one of the few places you can still see condors. Spend the night at a local hotel.
Day 4: Climb Guagua Pichinchia - 4300 M - a once active volcano. In 1999 it erupted a few times and covered Quito in ash. If it is clear, we'll be able to see down into the crater at the new formations.
Day 5: Head to Illiniza, spend the night in the refugio.
Day 6: Climb Illiniza Norte or Sur, return to camp, pack up and head toward Cotopaxi National Park. Staying at a nearby hotel to clean up, repack and rest.
Day 7: Pack up and head up to the Jose Ribas Refugio (4800m / 15,750 ft) to stay for the night.
Day 8: Review glacier skills and crevasse rescue on the glacier during the day, eat early and get to bed for a summit attempt in the early hours of the next day.
Day 9: Get up at around 12am, eat, and head out at about 1am. We will head up to the glacier. Once on the glacier, the normal route heads up right for a couple of hundred meters and then goes mostly straight up aiming for the right side of the rock wall known as Yanasacha (the Eye). We ascend up right of Yanasacha and reach the summit of Cotopaxi (19,347ft /5,897m).
Return to the refugio, pack up and head back to Quito.
Day 10: Head to Otovalo and shop the Indian Market for gifts for family and friends. Visit the equator in Cayambe on the way back to Quito.
Day 11: An alternate bad weather day for Cotopaxi, or if we summit as planned a day to visit old town in Quito and explore the churches, art, etc.
Day 12: Depart to fly home - or stay for the "additional days" option.

Additional possibilities: stay a few extra days and continue climbing the Volcanoes.
Day 12: Head to Cayambe, pack in and camp around 15,000.
Day 13: Climb Cayambe (18,996ft/5790m). Ecuador’s third highest peak, and the highest point on the earth’s surface through which the equator directly passes. The climb consists of moderate to heavily crevassed glaciated slopes to the summit.
Day 14: A back up day for Cayambe. If we summit as scheduled, we can use this day to visit the hot springs, and/or tour around Quito.
Day 15: Head to Chimborazo and spend the night in the refugio.
Day 16: Climb Chimborazo
Day 17: return to Quito
Day 18: Fly home

Rate $2650 per person based on double occupancy for the 12 day trip.
Trip includes all lodging, mountain meals, park fees, transportation in Ecuador, guide fees.
Trip does not include transportation/airfare to and from Quito, meals and drinks while in towns, taxes, visa fees, or gratuities..

As for experience, you should have experience backpacking and camping, have climbed (rock or ice) a few times to know how to use the equipment and be able to belay and rappel, and have little to no glacier experience. We will cover the glacier skills there, plus I like to get out a day or two locally before we leave (providing you leave in the North East). If you have glacier skills already – great!

*We may have to adjust the trip accordingly to suit weather, climbing conditions, volcanic activity, etc with other peaks and/or locations while in Ecuador.

 

Other Trip Photos:
To see photos from our most recent Cascade trip, please view our Cascades page.

On April 10, 2006 at 2pm, Alpine Endeavors was successful on the attempt to climb Carstensz Pyramid, the highest peak in Papua (West New Guinea).

View some personal photos from a few trips to the Bugaboos

More Information


Marty Molitoris, Director
AMGA Certified Rock Guide

845-658-3094
PO Box 58
Rosendale, NY 12472
info@alpineendeavors.com

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Guide Service

Mohonk Preserve Authorized 
Guide Service