Little Switzerland, Alaska
Alpine Climbing in Alaska’s Little Switzerland
June 5 – 17, 2008
The Pika Glacier (5600 ft), aka ‘Little Switzerland’ in the
central Alaska Range is located at the head of a group of small peaks
and glaciers that feed into the lower Kahiltna Glacier, approximately
35 miles south of Denali (aka ‘Mt. McKinley’) and Sultana
(aka ‘Mt. Foraker’).
View
of Hobbit King, Hobbit's Footstool, practice cliff, and Dragonspine, with
Kahiltna and South Face of Mt Foraker in the distance.
The former bush town of Talkeetna, about a two hour’s drive from
Anchorage, is the launching point for the ski-equipped planes that ferry
climbers, skiers and sightseers into the Alaska Range. The glacier flight
alone is a spectacular experience and alone is worth the trip. While most
alpinists are headed for Denali’s West Buttress, and a few are headed
for classics in the Ruth Gorge and Kahiltna Glacier, the glacier landing
site in Little Switzerland provides some of the most accessible and enjoyable
alpine rock climbing and ski touring in the Range.
The Pika Glacier is a relatively intimate setting compared to the higher
peaks, with a diversity of 100 to 2500’ rock routes as well as a
few glacier/snow routes and short approaches from basecamp. The technical
nature of the climbing favors small teams of 2-3 climbers, and provides
ideal objectives for experienced rock and/or ice climbers aspiring to
more alpine endeavors in one of the world’s greatest ranges.
While any visitors to the Range should bring an open mind for weather
delays and a commitment to a true wilderness expedition experience, a
6-10 day trip that includes the glacier flight, a well-appointed basecamp,
ski or snowshoe glacier travel, crevasse rescue training, alpine cragging,
and a shot at any of the many quality moderate rock routes in the grade
III, 5.5- 5.9 range - can make for the trip of a lifetime.
Fifteen
minutes from upper glacier basecamp... Middle Troll S. Face (III 5.8)
is classic.
TRIP OUTLINE
The Little Switzerland trip will consist of up to eight days of climbing
(weather dependant).
The rates for the trip is based on a party of two. Private rates available
upon request. Rates per person for a party of two for 2008 are approximately
$525 per person/per day based on an eight day trip and will
include:
Shuttle transportation to and from Anchorage
Glacier Filghts to and from Pika Glacier
Mountain Meals
Guiding Fees
Park/Permit Fees
The trip will be limited to smaller ratios of no more than 2 guests per
guide, allowing us to cover more technical terrain as efficiently and
safely as possible, and tailor the days to the individual’s experience
and ambitions.
Upon arrival in Talkeetna, climbers will do a last- minute gear check,
pack for the glacier flight, check in with the Park Service Ranger station
and then head into the Range on one of Talkeetna Air Taxi’s wheel-ski
equipped planes with some of the most experienced glacier pilots in Alaska.
We’ll establish basecamp and settle in for the week amidst the spectacular
scenery.
Once on the glacier, we’ll focus on reviewing, acquiring and practicing
alpine skills: snow climbing, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, mixed climbing
skills and alpine rock. Once covered, we’ll attempt summit climbs
of one of the Pika’s many classic rock or glacier routes on; Italy’s
Boot, the Dragonspine, Royal Tower, Throne, Hobbit King or the Trolls.
There are also options for mixed snow & rock routes in inclement weather,
snowshoe or ski-touring, or simply soaking in the ambience from basecamp
while you enjoy a rest-day breakfast.
Climbing
on the Dragonspine
View
downglacier from camp. The Throne in foreground. The 'very popular' Lost
Marsupial (III 5.8) is the rounded arete to the south summit.
Some of the climbing objectives* while we are there can include:
The Munchkin- (II, 5.2), West side crag (II, 5.7- 5.9)
The Throne- Lost Marsupial (III 5.8), East Ridge (III 5.9)
North Troll – S Ridge (III 5.7)
Middle Troll – S. Face (III 5.8)
South Troll – S. Face (IV-, 5.9)
Royal Tower- E. Ridge (IV, 5.8), Gargoyle Buttress (IV, 5.10a), The Jester
(II var. 5.10) + more
Hobbit King- Hobbit Arete (III-, 5.7)
Hobbit’s Footstool – E. Ridge (II, 5.8), W. Ridge (III, 5.9)
Practice Wall- 50-200’, 5.4- 5.8
Dragonspine- First buttress (III, 5.6-5.7)
*Please note the climbing is relatively easy for their grade, they are
not like old school trad ratings.
Hobbit
Arete (II+ 5.6)
Middle
Troll, South Face (III 5.8)
The
Throne.
LOGISTICS
Flying into Alaska’s bush is an intensely rewarding but committing
experience, climbers should ‘pad’ their schedule with 2-3
days to allow for weather delays at each end and purchase changeable tickets.
Guides will provide all ‘on-mountain’ meals, group cooking,
group camping and technical gear. Thanks to the use of the ski-plane,
basecamp will include a pyramid shaped cooking/ socializing shelter and
gourmet backcountry fare. If communications with friends/family/business
are a necessity, the pass to Hidden Glacier can be climbed to allow occasional
cell-phone service, and for guaranteed access satellite phones can be
rented in Anchorage or on-line.
Climbers will provide their own tents, sleeping bags/pads, personal clothing
and personal climbing gear. A gear list is available upon request.
Climbers must provide their own flights to/from Anchorage ( and if necessary)
lodging in Anchorage upon arrival/departure. Guides will arrange van shuttle
to & from Anchorage-Talkeetna and glacier flights with TAT.
GUIDES
We are limiting the ratio of this trip to 2 guests per guide.
The guides for the Little Switzerland trip will be Marty Molitoris and
Jesse Williams.
Jesse is an Alaska climbing veteran. Over the course of the last six years, Jesse has spent a total of eleven personal and guided trips into the Alaska Range and Wrangell-St. Elias, including: 2 summits of 3 attempts guiding Denali West Buttress, the first (recorded) ascent of the West Ridge of Mt. Frances, ascent of the Mini-Moonflower gully, ascent of the West Ridge of the Moose’s Tooth, ascent of the West Face of Mt. Dickey; free-heel ski descent of the East Ridge of Mt. Frances, free-heel descent of the North Ridge of Kahiltna Dome, free-heel descent of Denali’s Rescue Gully, ascents of the Throne, Hobbit King, North, South and Middle Troll and crag routes in Little Switzerland, attempts on Mt. Johnson, Mt. Hunter and the Dragonspine and the first descent of the Banana couloir on Tokyo Peak in the Wrangell-St. Elias.
*All photos are courtesy of Jesse Williams.
